Mardi Gras Foie Gras

Jan 18, 2008 by

The Chef at The Delachaise restaurant around the corner from my apartment is named Chris DeBarr. He is very talented and has a bit of notoriety outside of food circles to the fact that he is married to Poppy Z. Brite. Awhile back he started blogging about food and about the restaurant on LiveJournal, and I must say the posts have been well worth reading.

A few days ago he put up a lovely piece about foie gras and Carnival, which I highly advise. I’m sure I will irritate quite a few people in my support of this food item, but that is what you get when you visit HumidCity, unvarnished opinions. I think this quote from the middle of Chris’ post sums things up nicely:

I guess I’m just trying to say that, personally, foie gras lives up to the hype. These pages are never gonna be the place where I entertain the cruelty of its creation. I steadfastly believe that the duck and geese come to see the gavage as their rightful food ,and a bond with their farmer who is seeing they are well-fed creatures. Compared to battery chickens, feedlots, and the crucial manner that farms poison rivers with their pesticide-driven runoff, even the mighty Mississippi suffers environmental indignity because of the rampant use of agricultural chemicals as we scurry to turn cornfields into ethanol to power our witless human-sized yet lemming-scaled need to drive cars everywhere… over our global warming cliff, I’m sure. I love eating foie gras, and in the scheme of things with relation to food here in the 21st Century, I think it’s an old-fashioned tradition we ought to cherish for future generations, not a matter of public outcry.

So when else to dine on foie gras save in the season leading directly to Mardi Gras? Gotta get yer Gras on, y’know, bro’! So I’ll be putting some foie gras on the specials board these next few weeks. We’re starting with an unusal statement: Togarishi-crusted foie gras, seared, over sticky coconut black rice with a blood orange pepper jelly sauce. That’s a little different, matching foie gras to rice, but the black rice is rather chewy, mysterious, and slightly sweet — it’s also most importantly ready to sop up every molecule of savory fat that emanates from a seared piece of foie gras. When I sear foie, I always hate to lose the fat that melts away in the hot pan, so I try to think of ways to recapture it by deglazing the skillet and making a quick pan sauce.

See y’all at Krewe de Vieux and the Skull Club tomorrow night!



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